Banff & Jasper: The Jewels of the Canadian Rockies in 8 Days
- Allyson Rychlak
- Jun 30
- 12 min read
Updated: Jul 1
If the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks - especially Banff - aren't already on your bucket list, they should be. With the region's turquoise glacial lakes, accessible hikes with breathtaking views, wildlife around every corner, and plenty of things to do both in Banff town and nature, a week (or even a few days!) here is well worth the trip.
My family and I flew into Calgary International Airport, where we rented a car and drove about an hour and a half to Banff town. Before I dive into lodging, hikes and things to do, and restaurants (in that order) I want to note that we structured our trip in 3 parts - first, downtown Banff for two nights, before driving Icefields Parkway to Jasper National Park for two nights. After Jasper, we drove the Icefields Parkway in reverse to return to Lake Louise - part of Banff National Park but about forty minutes beyond Banff town - for our final three nights.
This was one of the most packed trips I've ever been on - or planned - and reinforced a quote I saw recently: "An itinerary is a guide - not gospel. Leave room for spontaneity." My camera roll was endless, so this is guide certainly has the most photos I've ever included. Up first, where to stay...
Lodging:
Hotel Canoe & Suites: Downtown Banff
With mountain views and walkability to the liveliness of downtown Banff - while still remaining on the outskirts of town for those who enjoy a bit more quiet - I could not recommend this spot more. We had a great breakfast before hiking at the restaurant, Sudden Sally, and the premium, complimentary coffee service to our room each morning was the nicest touch (we've joked that every other in-room coffee will pale in comparison). But the highlight of all was the outdoor spa area with mountain views: two hot tubs, a firepit, and a sauna with a glass window peering at Cascade Mountain. The service was excellent, but I'll be daydreaming about those views forever.
Parking in downtown Banff can be hard to come by (and pricey) so some hotels offer free passes for the Roam Transit bus. We ended up walking back and forth so we didn't use the passes, but it was nice to have the option.
Pyramid Lake Lodge: Jasper National Park
There are limited resort stays in Jasper (it seems like cabin rentals are more popular) and many are right in town. This hotel, directly on Pyramid Lake, is worth it for the location alone. We sat in red Muskoka chairs on the hotel's dock for sunrise and sunset with tea and our books. Kayak and canoe rentals are not included with your stay, but having the option on the property was a nice addition (and such a fun activity!).
The grounds are under construction, and it seems that only some of the rooms are updated, so ask about this when booking. Our room was very small, and I was the least impressed with the amenities here out of the three places we stayed, but the lake view made up for it.
Baker Creek by Basecamp: Lake Louise, Banff National Park
This might be my favorite hotel/resort I've ever stayed at. Ever. With 16 suites and 19 cabins on the property settled on Baker Creek, in the quiet of Bow Valley Parkway, this place is magical. Imagine this: a creekside cabin with everything you could ask for in a kitchenette, a wood-burning stove, a master bedroom and a loft, decor out of a "cabin aesthetic" Pinterest board, the rushing sound of the creek when you open the door to the back patio, and more. Oh, and a record player, which entertained me more than I'd like to admit. We had countless things to do and hikes to check off, but I could've stayed put at Baker Creek. The ultimate highlight was the quad of firepits along the creek, where we saw the Northern Lights on our second night here.
Though it might not be guaranteed, ask for a creekside cabin when booking or at check-in.
Hikes & Things to Do:
AllTrails linked where possible.
Near Downtown Banff:
Tunnel Mountain: 2.7-mile out-and-back for views of Banff town and the surrounding mountains. Beware of the elk! They are everywhere in Banff and Jasper and can be dangerous, especially during calving season in the spring and mating season in late summer to fall. We had a close encounter with a mama elk, hence the tidbit. Nothing but laughs to report on.
Stroll through the shops in downtown Banff! We especially loved Jolene's Teahouse and Rocky Mountain Soap Company; hotels in the area are stocked with these teas and soap products.
Bow Falls: a waterfall accessible by car and a quick walk, though you can turn it into a leisurely hike from town.
Ride the Banff Gondola to the peak of Sulfur Mountain for panoramic views and a meal at Sky Bistro.
For golfers, check off a once-in-a-lifetime course at the Fairmont Banff Springs. My dad and brother played a round at Stanley Thompson 18 and absolutely loved it.
Visit Vermilion Lake for sunrise or sunset, or take a leisurely 1.2-mile hike on Fenland Trail.
Or Two Jack Lake for a short hike.
Near Lake Louise:
Both Lake Louise & Moraine Lake can be accessed without strenuous hiking, but the trails made the experience so special. Our favorite hikes:
Johnston Canyon: At 30 minutes from downtown Banff and 25 minutes from Lake Louise, this well-maintained trail is a must-do. Hike around 3.4-miles out-and-back to see the Upper Falls, or continue on for a 7-mile out-and-back trek to see the Ink Pots.
If you've been to Zion National Park, this felt as if you hiked the Narrows on an elevated walkway above the water. Beautiful!
Lake Agnes & Teahouse: 4.6-mile out-and-back and quite steep, but entirely worth it. This was one of the highlights of our trip, especially since the teahouse wasn't supposed to open for a few more days (usually at the start of June). When we reached the mirror-like surface of Lake Agnes, we saw that the teahouse was having a "soft" opening for the start of the season.
A helicopter flies in supplies one day every season, and staff hikes up with supplies every week (as well as treks down with garbage and recycling at the end of every shift!). It is magical - you cannot miss it.
You can continue to Little Beehive after the teahouse, but the trail was too icy for us to attempt in late May.
Plain of Six Glaciers: Another hike to a teahouse, yet we did not have the stamina for this one (8.6-mile out-and-back) in the same morning as Lake Agnes.
Note that both teahouses are cash-only.
At Lake Moraine, which was a highlight of the trip, try Rockpile Trail for incredible views and minimal effort, if your legs are tired by this point like mine were. Consolation Lakes Trail (4.0-mile out-and-back) is another option, but we saw a sign that recommended hiking in groups of no less than four due to bear activity, so we thought long and hard before deciding to pass.
You can rent canoes on Lake Louise through the Fairmont, but it's pricey and hotel guests have first dibs. Stroll the Lakeshore trail for epic views of this iconic lake.
Jasper National Park & Icefields Parkway:
Though the first half of these spots are still within Banff National Park, they're located along Icefields Parkway, the 144-mile stretch of road that connects Lake Louise and Jasper and the two national parks. Even if you don't venture all the way to Jasper to stay overnight for part of your trip, these spots are incredible.
Tip: Fuel up in Banff or Lake Louise before you start the drive, since there is only one gas station on the Parkway (at Saskatchewan River Crossing).
Icefields Parkway (listed in order from Lake Louise to Jasper):
You could make this drive much longer or shorter depending on the stops, but I chose wisely based on others' recommendations, our energy levels, and timing for the day.
Herbert Lake: A serene pull-off, often overlooked. Your first taste of the glacial blue lakes!
Bow Lake: This could be just a pull-off for a photo, which we did on our way to Jasper, but my personal favorite hike of the whole trip begins here, at the parking lot for The Lodge at Bow Lake, where we stopped for tea and pastries.
Bow Glacier Falls. Although it's 5.6-mile out-and-back to the base of the waterfall, we stopped around 2 miles out at the viewpoint of the waterfall.
As of late June 2025, this trail is now closed due to a rockslide accident.
Peyto Lake: A quick drive past Bow Lake, where you can walk around less than a mile on a paved path to a stunning viewpoint. The inevitable crowd is worth it for the turquoise water and mountains below.
Mistaya Canyon: Quick 1.2-mile trail to see the canyon over the Mistaya River. Do not miss this! The initial viewpoint comes early in the trail, so you don't need to go very far for great rewards here.
Parker Ridge: 4.1-mile out-and-back option to stretch your legs see Saskatchewan Glacier. This trail was covered in snow in late May, so we skipped it!
Athabasca Glacier and the Columbia Icefields: A highlight of this drive! You can take an all-terrain ice explorer out on the glacier, or get tickets for the Skywalk, though we did not end up doing either. Simply seeing the glacier from the viewpoint was breathtaking (and windy!).
Wilcox Pass is a popular hike if you have extra time and stamina.
Goats & Glacier Viewpoint: Quick pull-off with beautiful views. We did, in fact, see goats here, which feels too serendipitous not to share.
Sunwapta Falls: 2-mile out-and-back hike that follows the falls along the river.
Athabasca Falls: Another quick pull-off for an easy view of a roaring waterfall.
Highlights in Jasper area:
Jasper experienced the largest wildfire in a century in 2024, leaving many of the trails closed as of spring 2025. While the park looks a bit different than in years past, we loved our time in Jasper and still recommend the beautiful national park to anyone planning a Canadian Rockies trip. Kayaking at Pyramid Lake Lodge was a favorite!
Spirit Island Cruise (otherwise known as the Maligne Lake Boat Cruise): Perhaps the most iconic thing to do in Jasper, and one of Canada's most photographed locations.
We loved the Mary Schaeffer Loop for a quick 2 miles. It was beautiful, but bring bug spray for the lake portion.
Watchtower Canyon via Medicine Lake: 2.5-mile out-and-back on Medicine Lake that was closed due to a nest of bald eagles, which was even more exciting.
Golf: The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge's course is often ranked even higher than Banff Springs (and has been considered the #1 course in Canada), yet I believe JPL's was closed due to restoration from wildfires. Opening date on the site is July 1st, 2025, so future visitors will be in luck.
Jasper is a Dark Sky Preserve, so there are plenty of stargazing tours and activities at the Planetarium.
Hikes that were closed as of May 2025 that were highly recommended prior to the wildfire:
Edith Cavell Meadows Trail
Maligne Canyon
Valley of the Five Lakes
Restaurants:
Downtown Banff Eats:
Let me preface this list by saying that these four were phenomenal. There are many restaurants in downtown Banff, but we had limited time with our packed itinerary elsewhere, so I chose carefully based off recommendations and reviews! You can't go wrong with the following...
The Bison: The best restaurant in Banff, in my humble opinion. It was so good that we debated coming back on our final night, but we decided to try Lupo instead. Great ambiance, excellent service, local farm-to-table menus, and music on Thursdays from 6-9pm. I can't forget the outdoor patio with views of the mountains! A trip to Banff is complete with dinner at here.
Bluebird Woodfired Steakhouse: While the name is a bit deceiving for what I'm about to recommend, come for breakfast or brunch! Bluebird is famous for their soufflé pancakes, which you can order as a meal or a side. While the boys were golfing, my mom and I had the most delicious meal of pancakes, scrambled eggs with feta on sourdough, fruit, and cold-pressed juice. My mouth is watering thinking about it.
Three Bears Brewery: Perfect for lunch or a casual dinner (and happy hour from 3-5pm daily). Indoor and outdoor seating, rotating craft beers, and a retractable roof for stargazing - what more could you want? Try the steak lettuce wraps, hot chicken sandwich, and Three Bears double burger.
Lupo: Aptly named as it's located on Wolf Street, this market-inspired Italian spot is gorgeous, with outdoor seating, happy hour, delicious food, and excellent service. Try a combination of pastas and pizzas and you'll be all set for the next day full of hiking. We came here on our final night before our morning flights out of Calgary, and it was the perfect way to end the trip.
Coffee places and cafes that I had on our list (but we did not need thanks to the Hotel Canoe coffee) included: Whitebark Cafe, Good Earth Coffeehouse, and Wild Flour Bakery.
Lake Louise Eats:
Dining here is much more limited than in Banff town, and most options are either very fancy or very basic. While the famous Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is primarily open for hotel guests only at their restaurants for dinner, afternoon tea is a popular tradition in the Fairview Restaurant overlooking the lake. After a hike, we stopped by The Guide's Pantry in the hotel for coffee and pastries.
If you're lucky enough to be visiting when the teahouses are open, this makes the hikes even sweeter. Though we headed back into downtown Banff for dinner when we stayed at Baker Creek by Basecamp, we had fine meals at Bill Peyto's Cafe and Timberwolf Pizza & Pasta. For great breakfast sandwiches and coffee, try Trailhead Cafe (and expect a line out the door!). The Post Hotel is a more refined option, and Lake Louise Station Restaurant has good reviews.
Jasper Eats:
Terra: Delicious "farmed and foraged fare" with a beautiful exterior inside The Crimson Hotel.
The View at Maligne Lake, Waffle Hut, and Lake House Cafe: Variety of dining options on Maligne Lake. We grabbed lunch at the Lake House Cafe, since the The View wasn't open at the time, and it was great.
Jasper Brewing Company: Exactly as the name states. Yummy burgers and local beers.
Mad Grizzly: We came for breakfast, which was great, but this restaurant with outdoor seating serves three meals a day.
Bear's Paw Bakery: A well-loved spot for coffee and pastries.
Aalto: Though we didn't eat here, this is the restaurant at Pyramid Lake Lodge, with stunning views of the lake.
Dining at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge's many restaurants is also an option (though I'm not sure about their hotel guest policy like the Chateau). After dinner at Terra, we came and sat by the fire, had drinks, and listened to live music in the Emerald Lounge of the main lodge.
Overall trip tips:
Lake Louise & Moraine Lake Shuttle: Parking is extremely limited at Lake Louise, and entirely banned at Moraine Lake, so plan accordingly with the Parks Canada shuttle reservations. I booked this the day the tickets opened in April.
Parks pass: There are daily rates for both Banff and Jasper, but you can also purchase the Parks Canada Discovery Pass in-person or online for annual access.
Packing: Layers, layers, and more layers. Packing will depend on the season, of course. In late May, we needed plenty of warmth for the morning and evening but basked in the sun midday when moving and grooving on the trails.
Bear spray: If you're going to do any level of hiking, you'll need it. No questions asked! Rent at Bear Street Outfitters for $10 a day per can, or Banff Convenience Store for supposedly $45 for the week to get $25 back when you return (we went to the Outfitters just because of its proximity in town).
We saw two black bears from the car on Icefields Parkway - my ideal encounter - and it was incredible. No need to deploy the spray when you're safely inside your trusty rental Jeep. Keep an eye out and you just might see The Boss.
MPC (Mobile Passport Control): I always recommend this app to those without Global Entry. Skip the long lines when going through U.S. customs on your way home with this entirely free app. It's the best hack!
Banff and Jasper were truly stunning, and I have not stopped raving about this trip since I returned home. There is so much world to explore. If you are planning a trip to the Canadian Rockies and want some tips, always reach out!
Wonderful blog and photos from a talented writer!