The Azores & Madeira: Portugal's Untouched Island Gems

As the sun sets on a jam-packed (and fast) summer, I'm looking back on a fabulous trip this past June with three of my closest friends and favorite adventure buddies. While Sao Miguel, the most popular Azorean island for first-time visitors, and Madeira, are two separate locations, I combined them for the sake of this guide and to best explain how we planned our travels between both spots.

Sunrise at Pico do Areeiro, one of my favorite parts on our trip in Madeira

Part 1: The Azores (Sao Miguel)

Often called "The Hawaii of Europe" - and for good reason, the views are breathtaking - the Azores are a string of nine volcanic islands roughly 1,000 miles from mainland Portugal. When deciding on a destination for our trip this summer, my friends and I wanted to be able to hike and spend the majority of our time outside, enjoy good food and wine, and experience a new culture and location different from our travels in the past. One of my friends had visited the Azores a few years before with family, and loved the trip enough to return!

Sao Miguel, also known as the "Green Island," is famous for its hydrangeas, whales, and volcanic scenery, and boasts the only direct flight from the mainland United States. We flew Azores Airlines (SATA Air) from JFK for an under-six-hour, relatively reasonably priced flight. Pro tip: the airline is notorious for weighing carry-ons when flying internationally (inter-island flights were not as strict, and they did not weigh our bags to Madeira).

As for our timeline, we flew out of JFK Sunday evening, landed early Monday morning in Sao Miguel, and explored the Azorean island until Wednesday evening before our flight to Madeira. All info on our second stop is included in this guide below. We returned from Madeira on Saturday before our Sunday evening flight back to JFK; thus, we stayed at two different locations in Sao Miguel. Rental cars are pretty much essential for both places, and we recommend getting additional insurance from the rental service provider - that's a story for another time.

Stays:

• We stayed at an Airbnb that was central to Ponta Delgada and Sao Roque in the middle of the island, which was a convenient location and allowed us to check spots off our list without having to plan the entire day out. I wouldn't necessarily recommend where we booked, but there are plenty of Airbnb and VRBO options if you plan in advance.

• When we returned from Madeira for our final night on the island before our flight back to the U.S., we stayed at Pedras do Mar Resort & SPA. After spending our time in Airbnbs for the majority of the trip, this spot was fantastic: beautiful grounds with ocean views and walking trails, an infinity pool, tennis courts, restaurant and bar, and a relaxing spa that was able to fit us in for last-minute massages. On Sunday before we left for the airport, we also had an impressive breakfast (did I call a hotel breakfast impressive? Yes, take my word for it).

Pedras do Mar Resort & SPA, where we stayed on our final night on Sao Miguel

• For a more upscale hotel, check out Octant Hotels Ponta Delgada, where my friend had a great stay with her family. There's a fabulous rooftop bar with ocean and city views here as well!

Things to do:

• Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire): Fighting jetlag, we went straight to this trailhead after breakfast in downtown Ponta Delgada and caught the shuttle to the top of the mountain - you cannot drive to the lake in your vehicle. On a clear day, the views are out of this world (we did not have a clear day, but it was still impressive). The shuttle was around 5€ per person.

• Caldeira Velha: These thermal pools are amid the forest, or more accurately, a scenic nature preserve called Caldeira Velha Environmental Interpretation Centre. The pools are open 7 days a week beginning at 9 am, and tickets must be booked in advance. I recommend going as soon as they open, as the pools get crowded. This was such a relaxing thing to do before spending the rest of the day exploring but pack your towels.

One of the "warm" pools at Caldeira Velha

• Sete Cidades: Considered a "postcard" of the Azores, this area of the island is truly incredible and should be saved for a clear day. Check out the Miradouro da Vista do Rei for a viewpoint of the blue and green crater twin lakes. Our favorite hike in the Azores was the Miradouro Boca do Inferno, a 1.6-mile out-and-back trail with its famous wooden railings. Every view here is spectacular. There are other hikes here as well, but this is by far the most popular. 

  • You can also walk around the Sete Cidades town for lunch and check out the water at the lakeshore level. We fueled up with fresh fruit from a market, some snacks, and European Fantas (IYKYK).

Miradouro Boca do Inferno, one of the most popular hikes on the island

• Ponta da Ferraria: As a truly natural ocean thermal bath on the western side of the island, we all agreed this was one of the highlights of the trip. Sulfurous hot spring water mixes with the cold water from the ocean, and coming here at low tide is essential. You can park your car at the very bottom of the steep hill (pro tip: don't walk down the hill in sandals as we did) and take the short walk to the natural pools. 

• Gorreana Tea Factory: This is the oldest (and only) tea plantation in Europe, settled on the beautiful cliffside of Sao Miguel, one of the few islands where tea can grow. We walked through the factory to learn about tea production, explored the breathtaking tea fields with views of the sea beyond, tried local teas, and brought some home with us to enjoy for the rest of the trip!

The tea factory was a relaxing (and totally free) afternoon activity to beat jetlag

• Mosteiros Beach: We brought towels, fresh fruit, and snacks to lie on this beach for a few hours after a hike and before dinner one afternoon. The volcanic black sand, bright blue water, and jutting cliffs make it a serene spot to get some sun and swim.

Mosteiros is a popular sunset spot due to its western location on the island

• Furnas and Terra Nostra Hot Springs: The Furnas Valley on the eastern side of the island is a must-see on Sao Miguel, with two active volcanic sites and boiling calderas near the picturesque Terra Nosta Park and hot springs. You can hike, kayak, or paddle board on the Furnas Lake before visiting the bubbling calderas in the center of town, where there is plenty to explore, eat, and drink. At Terra Nostra, you can visit the botanical gardens or take a dip in the thermal pools of iron-enriched orange water. There is also a hotel here with a restaurant, and eating at the restaurant gives you complimentary access to the park and thermal pool.

  • Hot springs alternative: try Poca da Dona Beija for another thermal pool option.

• Nordeste: We baked this scenic drive into our stop at Furnas since you can make a loop around the eastern end of the island. There is a beautiful village, plenty of cliffside views, and a park called Ponta do Sossego Viewpoint and Garden, where one of my favorite photos from our trip was taken. You can also stop at the Arnel Point Lighthouse, the first lighthouse in the Azores that opened in 1876.

Stunning cliffside views at the Ponta do Sossego Viewpoint and Garden

• Pineapple plantations: We checked out 2 during our day before the late flight to Madeira: Plantação Ananases A Arruda and Plantação de Ananás dos Açores. You can explore the greenhouses, learn about the planting and harvesting processes, and try a variety of pineapple treats and goodies. I've never tasted better pineapple in my life!

Restaurants:

• Gastrónomo: We had the best meal here on our second night, and probably one of my favorites of the whole trip. The owner and her son were so kind and hospitable, and we tried many traditional Azorean dishes while sipping on Vinho Verde.

• Restaurant Mariserra: Plenty of options for seafood dishes here! We had the most delicious Pico wine from Pico Island, one of the 9 Azorean islands.

• Terras: Compared to our first two dinners, this spot is less traditional but made for a great final meal before the airport in downtown Ponta Delgada. We sat outside and had yummy pizzas.

• Espinha.Come: Midway through our Furnas adventure, we stopped here for a lovely lunch outside.

• Azores Forever Diner: The name makes me laugh, but we had great breakfast sandwiches and coffee here before a full day of activity. I loved the street it was on and the outdoor seating, with views of Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião in downtown Ponta Delgada.

  
  

Breakfast at Azores Forever Diner with a view of the Matriz Church

• Colmeia Avenida: We came here twice for breakfast - I recommend their chia pudding!

• Ice cream: La Gelataria in downtown Ponta Delgada, or Quinta dos Açores, which is also a restaurant (we came here twice since it was close to our Airbnb)

Part 2: Madeira

My only wish regarding our time on Madeira is that we had more days to spend here. The island has jaw-dropping views, plenty to do, and a charming seaside town called Funchal. A rental car is needed, as I previously noted, but beware that the streets here are quite narrow (as are the underground parking garages). It can get a bit hairy! We stayed at an Airbnb in the seaside village of Camara de Lobos, which was a better spot to get on and off the main highways to get around the island (compared to staying in downtown Funchal, which can get congested).

Things to do:

• Sunrise at Pico do Areeiro: The early wake-up and drive through the fog to ascend the mountain was incredibly worth it, since this was by far my favorite part of the trip (Azores included). Words can't describe the breathtaking sunrise, the colors in the sky and against the mountains, and the clouds rolling in and changing by the second as the sun rose. Photos almost do the spectacle justice, but you'll want to see for yourself. The drive was about 30 minutes from our Airbnb and the rest of Funchal, and it was a quick walk to the sunset point from the main parking lot.

  • Tip: You can hike on the trail for as long as you'd like, or extend to the full-day hike (if you're well-prepared) to Pico das Torres culminating at the archipelago's highest peak, Pico Ruivo. 

Dress warmly for sunrise here, no matter how warm it is at sealevel!

• Cabo Girão Viewpoint: This is the highest cliffwalk in Europe and worth it for the views. Come early, as it gets crowded midday.

• Hike Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço: Not to be confused with the São Lourenço on Santa Maria Island on the Azores! Hike along the volcanic peninsula of basalt and limestone that is starkly different from the rest of the island, with no trees and low vegetation. The full hike can take between 2-3 hours, depending on stops to admire the sea and rocks.

A must in Madeira, but come early! This hike can get popular

• Santana: Visit this adorable town on the eastern end of the island to see the 'casinhas de Santana,' traditional Madeirenese homes with straw-thatched rooftops painted red, white, and blue.

• Fanal Forest: Magical (and spooky) are two words to describe this UNESCO World Heritage Site and ancient laurel forest. When we visited, the day was clear and sunny, but once we climbed in elevation on our drive, the atmosphere became increasingly foggy and mystical. The forest is truly out of a fairytale - we were enamored by the landscape, the constantly changing weather, and the cows (can't forget about them).

"Lord of the Rings" anyone?

• Sunset Cruise with VMT Madeira Catamaran Trips: We booked this last minute after realizing a trip to Madeira would not be complete without being on the water. This was a highlight of the trip, and guests were allowed to jump into the ocean near the end of the sail (only one of us was brave enough).

Madeira is breathtaking by land, but even prettier by sea

• Explore Funchal:

  • We planned on doing a wine tasting & cellar tour with Blandy's Wine Lodge in downtown Funchal but decided to do the sunset cruise instead. This is an adorable wine shop and gift shop, and I heard great things about the tour!

  • Check out the Mercado dos Lavradores (farmers' market) that has been serving the people of Funchal and Madeira since 1940.

  • Other things to do and see in Funchal include: Sé Cathedral, Santa Clara Convent, Zona Velha (Old Town), Praça do Município (Municipal Square), Fortaleza de São Tiago (São Tiago Fort), and the Funchal Botanical Garden. You can also ride a cable car up the mountainside to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden for views of the city, and take a traditional toboggan ride down!

I wish we had more time to explore Funchal, but nature called!

• Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz: Take a cable car down a seaside cliff to the pebbled beach at Fajã da Quebrada Nova for stunning, panoramic views of the western side of the island. If you're afraid of heights, this might not be for you (but it was so worth it).

The beach and views at the bottom of the cable car

• Natural Pools of Porto Moniz: Located about 20 minutes by car from the cable car on the western side of the island, we aimed to come here afterward, but by the time we ascended the mountainside, it would've been too close to the pools' closing time. Come here for oceanic natural pools formed from volcanic rock.

  • We also wanted to have some R&R at Doca do Cavacas, another set of volcanic bathing pools near our Airbnb in Camara de Lobos, but time was limited. Lots of things are on our bucket list when we return!

Restaurants:

• ComTradições: After our sunset cruise, we walked downtown to this restaurant with delicious, traditional seafood and excellent service that was tucked away on a side street.

• Restaurante O Polar: We were able to walk from our Airbnb to this traditional Portuguese spot, where we had a generous portion of steak kebabs and, of course, Portuguese wine.

You can't come to Madeira without trying steak kebabs - the butter drips from the top!

• Art Food Corner Madeira: Come to this spot just one block from the water for breakfast or lunch.

Our trip to the Azores and Madeira was a perfect adventurous girls' trip, and I'm so grateful that we were able to experience such beautiful places. As both spots - but especially the Azores - become more popular, I encourage travelers to add these stops to their trips to mainland Portugal or go separately like we did. As always, feel free to reach out with any travel planning questions, concerns, or suggestions. Thank you for reading!